Guide for sewing machines



July 3, 1923.

J. J. DRAKE GUIDE FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed Jan. 20 1920 ATTORNEY Patented daily 3 l2.

z, or ELIZABETH, new JERSEY, ASSIGNOR 'ro 'rnn srrrenannnuracreams conranr, or ELIZABETH, NEW annsnr, A conronsrron or 1-:

" JERSEY.

GUIDE FOR SEWJ IN'G MACHINES.

Application filed January 20; 1920. Serial No. 352,871.

To al whom it may concern."

Be'it known that 1, JOHN J. DRAKE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Elizabath, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Guides for Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to sewing machines, more particularly of the hat sewing type, and has for an object to provide a guide which will operate in conjunction withthe work-supporting and work-feeding devices of the machine to present a previously folded over edge portion of material, such as the brim of a hat, to the sewing instrumentalities in such a manner that the inwardly disposed free edge of the fold will be blind as stitched to the body of the material, thereby forming an edge finish for the latter. 1 The present guide is adapted, more particularly, for use on a hat sewing machine of the t e disclosed in the patent to Alfred as Grieb,

comprising opposed horizontal work-feedin and resser-wheels between which is positioned a freely rotatable vertical worksupporting wheel, the top edge of which is adapted to support a folded portion of a hat body while clamped between the presser and feed-wheels, so that the horizontally reciprocating needle will enter and emerge from the upper side of the material without passing through to the opposite or under side thereof, thereby forming blind stitches which have heretofore been customarily employed in stitching the sweat band to position within the crown of the hat. v

The present guide is adapted to be carried by the support for the presse'r-wheel and is formed with a'pair of spaced downwardly extending rests or lips defining between them an inverted trough havin within it a groove for reception of the olded over free edge of the hat brim; the lips or rests assistin in forming a reverse fold in the materia of the hatbrim adjacent the said folded over free edge and presentin said to reverse fold and free edge to the fee and resser-wheels in such relation that the needle will stitch through the folded over free edge and into the reverse fold ad aoent thereto without passing through to the 58 under side of the material at the latter fold.

0. 1,206,433, of Nov. 28, 1916, and

In the accompanying drawings Fig. 1 IS a s de eleva'tionof a well known type of hat sewing machine embodying the invention. Fig. 2 is'a top plan view of the esvation of the guide. Fig. 6 is a fra entary bottom plan view of-the guide.

1 7 is a section on the line 7-7, Fig. 5 and l ig.

8 is a sectional view of the seam formed by a machine embodying the invention.

For the purposes of the present disclosure the invention is shown as embodied in a hat sewing machine constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure-of the 4 said Grieb patent. A machine of thistype commonly comprises a supporting frame having a base 1 and a standard 2 within which is housed suitable actuating mechanism for the horizontally reciprocating needle 3 and the looper 4; the latter operating to seize a loop of thread passed through the work by the needle and carry said loop over the folded edge of the work for entry by the needle on its next work piercing thrust, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3. The machine also comprises a feed-wheel which, in the embodiment illustrated, is constituted by the horizontally disposed, peripherally serrated wheel 5 mounted on the step-by-st'ep moving feed-shaft 6 which receives its motion from well known driving mechanism, not shown.

Opposed to the feed-wheel 5 and cooperating with the latter to feed the work is the usual resser-wheel 7 which is mounted to turn freely upon the stud-pin 8 fixed in the lug 9 at the lower end of the depending portion 10 of the usual pivotally mounted and spring-pressed presser-arm 11 which rises from below the bed 1. The present machine further comprises a work-support in the form of a vertically disposed disk 12 mounted to turn freely u on the ball 13 carried b the bracket 14 w ich is mounted as usual or pivotal adjustment upon the pin 15 fixed to the Presser-arm 11. The disk 12 is usually adjusted to a height such that it will support the folded portion of ahat, where ingly disposed inwardly from the edge-fold the crown joins the brim, sothat the needle will enter and emerge from the same side of the material without passing through to the other side of the material. In other words, the disk 12 supports the work so that I it will be blind stitched; these machines bethe screw 18 and friction washer 19. The

bracket 17 is mounted upon the lug '9 at the free end of the presser-arm and overhangs the presser-wheel 7; the overhanging portion of the bracket 17 being steadied by means of ascrew 20 which is threaded into thefi red pin 8.

The gulde g is formed at its free end with a guiding head including the depending rest 21 for the body of the hat brim and the overhanging rest or lip 22, which rests de-v fine an inverted trough, as shown in Fig. 5. Within this trough, the guiding head is formed with a shoulder 23 and a groove 24, the latter being disposed at one side of and at a higher level than the shoulder 23. Referring to Figs. 4 and 7, it will be seen that the shoulder 23 is upwardly inclined toward the delivery end of the guiding head, said inclination approximating that ofthe adjacent portion of the periphery of the work-supporting disk 12. At the delivery end of the guide-head, as Well as at the receiving'end, the shoulder 23-is below the level of the groove 24.

Ad'ustably mounted on the guide-shank 16 by meansof a screw-and-slot connection 25 is a stop 26 which is adapted to strike the shoulder 27 on the usual adjustable loopfinger 28 common to machines of the present type,and thus determine the operative posi- 131011 of the guide-head relative to the'needle.

Preparatory to the operation of the present device to finish the edge of a hat brim b,

it is necessary to prepare the hat by folding over and creasing the marginal portion of the hat brim, as shown at 29. ,Fig. 2; a pre-- formed edge-fold 30 being thus provided. The free edge 31 of the hat brim is accord- 29. The marginal portion of the hat brim is then introduced between the feeding and presser-wheels 5 and 7 and is bent over the work-supporting disk 12, as shown in Fig; '3', thus forming a reverse fold 32 adjacent the free edge 31 and in position to be blind stitched to said free edge.

As the machine is operated, the work-support 12 acts in conjunction with the rests 21 and 22 to deflector reversely'bend the hat brim into the inverted .trou h between said rests; the bend or fold 32l eing gradually or rest 22 thus confines the initially formed fold 30 at an angle to the main body portion of the hat brim, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Since the shoulder 23 is below the level of the groove 24:, the edge 31 will be presented to the needle somewhat higher than the told 32, in order that thethread will be securely anchoredin the fold 30.

When it is desired to use the machine for.

other stitching operations, the guide may be readily swung to an out of the way position, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 2. The upwardly extending post 33 which is rigid with the shank 16 of the guide affords a convenient finger piece for shifting the guide about its pivot 18. I 7

After the stitches 34 have been formed the hat brim is ironed out flat, as shown in hig.

,8, wherein it will be seen that the stitches 34 are blind or invisible at the under side of the hat brim.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is 1. In a hat sewing machine, the com.- bination. with stitch-forming mechanism including a horizontally reciprocating needle, and feeding mechanism including a horizontally disposed work-engagingwheel, of means including a guide having depending lip and rest elements. disposed outside of the periphery of saidwheel for reversely folding the marginal portion of a hat brim adjacent the inwardly disposed free edge of a pre-formed edge fold andv presenting said free edge and reversely folded. portion to the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms.

' 2. In a hat sewing-machine, the combination with a resser-wheel, of a' guide comprising a depending'rest extending below the plane of the upper end of the presserwheel and outside of the periphery of such wheel for positioning the body of the hatbrim,.and an overhanging lip for confining an edge-fold in angular relation to the body of the hat-brim, said guide being formed between saidrest and lip with-a groove for guiding the free folded ..over edge ofthe;

3. In a hat sewingimachine, inicomb iiiaetion, a resser-wheel, a Presser-wheel support, :xa guide-shank mounted upon ,t e'. v

resser-wheel sup'pot, and a guide for the r at formed at the ndlef sh.

and comprising a lip and a depending rest extending below the plane of the upper end of the presser-wheel and outside of the periphery of such wheel for positioning the body of the hat-brim, said guide being formed between said rest and lip with a groove for guiding the free folded over edge of the hat-brim.

4. A guide forhat sewing machines comprising, opposed depending rests defining an inverted trough, said guide being formed within the trough with a shoulder and with a groove at one side of and above the level of said shoulder, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

5. In a hat sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a horizontally reciprocating needle and feeding mechanism including opposed feeding and Presser-wheels, of means in advance of said stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms and between said wheels.

for reversely folding the marginal portion of a hat brim adjacent the inwardly dis,- posed free edge of a pre-formed edge fold and presenting said free edge and reversely folded portion to the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms.

6. In a hat sewing-machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a horizontally reciprocating needle,

feeding mechanism including opposed horizontal feeding and presser-wheels, and a work-support operating between said wheels, of guiding means disposed between said wheels and acting in conjunction with said work-support to reversely fold the marginal portion of a hat brim adjacent the inwardly disposed free edge of a preformed edge fold and present said free edge and reversely folded portion to the stitchforming and feeding mechanisms.

7. In a hat sewing "machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a horizontally reciprocating needle, feeding mechanism including opposed horizontal feeding and presser-wheels, and a vertically disposed work-supporting disk between said wheels, of-guidlng means disposed between said wheels and acting in conjunction with said disk to reversely fold the marginal portion of a hat brim adjacent the inwardly disposed free edge of a preformed edge foldand present said free edge and reversely folded portion to the stitchforming and feeding mechanisms.

8. In a hat sewing machine, the c0mbinat1on with stitch-forming mechanism including a horizontally reciprocating needle, and

tion with stitch-forming mechanism includ- I ing a horizontally reciprocating needle, and

feeding mechanism including opposed feeding and presser-wheels, of a guide disposed in advance of said stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms and comprising a depend-.

ing rest between said wheels for positioning the body of a hat brim, and an overhanging lip between said wheels for confining and guiding a pre-formed edge fold to the stitch-forming mechanism in angularrelation to the body of the hat brim, said guide being formed between said depending rest and overhanging lip with a groove for guiding and confining the freeedge of the preformed edge fold. i

10. In a hat sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a-horizontally reciprocating needle and feeding mechanism including a horizontal wheel, of a guide comprising opposed rests located outside of the periphery of said wheel and depending below the plane of the upper edge of said wheel, thereby defining an inverted trough, and means cooperating with said guide to bend the-marginal portion of a hat brim upwardly into said trough during the operation of the machine and present the folded work to the stitchformmg and feeding mechanisms.

11. In a hat sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism includ portion of a hat brim upwardly into said i trough during the o ratlon'of the machine and present the fol ed work to the stitchforming and feeding mechanisms.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

JOHN J. DRAKE. 

